Letters from the Goldfields - 28th January 1896
Bernard and Arthur Baker were good friends of Billy from school
days. Arthur spent a couple of years working as a cabin steward on
the Orient, a passenger steamship plying the London to Australia
route. In 1895, he and another Horsham mate, Tom Bradford, decided
to try their luck in the Coolgardie gold rush. Arthur wrote regular
letters home to his friends but it seems that Billy was his most
dependable correspondent. Billy kept Arthur’s letters and one or
two that were passed on by Bernard. This first letter in the series
was a copy Billy made of Arthur’s first letter to his brother on
arriving at Coolgardie.
Buckingham Palace
(that’s our tent – 8 ft by 10 ft)
c/ G.J. Warren Esq
Imperial Chambers
Coolgardie, W.A.
Tuesday 28th January 1896
My Dear Bern,
In my last letter we were at Fremantle. We stayed there five days
and had a very enjoyable time “crab fishing” up the Swan River.
Went to Perth on the Thursday morning and left Perth by the 3.30
train for Northam (85 miles) [away]. Arrived there about 8 p.m.,
stayed there until the next afternoon (Friday) and left again for
Southern Cross (140 miles) arriving at midnight where they “kindly”
gave us a “sleep” on the floor in an hotel for 3/- each and a steak
etc. for breakfast for another 3/-. Here the line is in the hands
of the contractors as it’s not completed. Took contractor’s tickets
to Woolgangie (86 miles) and arrived Saturday afternoon 5 p.m. This
was as far as the line is down and the scene is one of utmost
confusion, thousands of men clearing trees and laying the line and
thousands of camels carrying provisions and water to the fields. It
was impossible to get a seat on any coach so we had to start to
walk. The road is something awful, sink over your shoes in loose
sand. Anyway, from 5 that night till quarter to 12 we walked 22
miles and arrived at “Bulla Bullin”. Meals here also were 3/- and a
sleep in the old man’s tent 3/-. Started on the road again Sunday
morning 9.15 (19 Jan ’96) and walked in to Coolgardie in the
afternoon about 5 thoroughly done up. Forty one miles from
Woolgangie, we were nearly black. Stayed at an hotel for a day or
two then bought a tent and are at present living in same.
Bryley Street, Coolgardie, 1896,
National Archives of Australia.
We are only about a mile from the famous “Bayley’s Reward” and
“Londonderry” Mines. Water is 5d and 6d a gallon for whatever
purpose so we have to be very careful. See us up in the morning
collecting sticks and boiling our “Billy” (can) for making the tea
while Tom prepared his famous “Irish Stew”. We wash in a saucepan
lid. I wash my hands and face and perhaps feet then pass it on to
Tom to clean his teeth in then stand it outside the camp to settle
down for “drinking” purposes! Anyway, there is not enough here to
waste. If a man wants to give his horse a drink, he’s got to pay at
the same rate. We carry our water in canvas bags. It will be a good
thing when the railway comes up here then shall get provisions and
water cheaper. Butter we have not seen here, bread 10d a loaf,
oranges and lemons 6d each. A drink of any description in a hotel
1/-. All previsions have to be carried by camel trains from
Woolgangie, the charge for such carting being £12 per ton.
It was a good thing we filled our water bags before starting to
walk for when we arrived at about 12 miles from Coolgardie (called
12 mile Soak) expecting to find water there, it was dried up.
There’s not a blade of grass, sand plains all the way, and on the
rail, the train would stop and men get out to pick up wood for the
engine fire – no coal. We have to wear fly nets over our face and
necks. There are plagues of flies and they make for your eyes. If
they bite you it’s a caution. Evening is pleasant here as the flies
knock off about sunset. A few days ago we had the heat 145° in the
sun and 120° in the shade. That’s too hot for any white man. Plenty
of natives here running wild, also Afghans for camel driving. They
have a camp to themselves and are very orderly as a rule. Teams of
camels are constantly passing all day loaded up. Horses cannot live
on the road. I don’t know how many skeletons of horses we passed
walking from Woolgangie. The dust storms here are enough to smother
anyone occasionally. Put on a clean shirt and it’s dirty in twenty
minutes. We often say what would some English people say if
they were dropped down into this place. There is no doubt but what
there is business to be done here for a while if a man can “stick”
the life and climate, but it’s no place for anyone to come to
without cash. I would not advise anyone from home to come here
without a few pounds clear when he arrive up here.
I’m sure Tom and I are already brown enough for born colonists and
being used to hot weather we get on as well as the best of them. In
fact we are A.1 or “Class”. I am in Mr Warren’s office at present
(the Managing Director of the Hands Across the Sea Gold Mining Coy)
and am getting on alright with him. We found him the first night we
arrived here. He came round and saw me in “bed”. Tom starts also in
a day or two’s time. We may both go out to one of the mines Mr
Warren is managing before very long. Of course wages are very good.
Miners get £4 a week and some are found with water which is a great
consideration. We went out to see Bailey’s Reward Mine the other
day. You would like to see some of the quartz all shredded with
gold veins running through the stone. Kindly let the clique know my
address. I have only time to drop you this letter by this mail but
will write Nel, Sam, Billy, Fred and all in turn. Shall be very
glad to hear from all so hurry them up.
Tom and me (by advice from Mr Warren who also bought a 100) bought
a hundred shares in a gold mine the other day and we have good
authority that they will “run up” in price. The we shall “sell
out”. That kind of business would be just in old Sam Chriss’s
handwriting if he was here. There are plenty of men here who have
made their fortune I can assure you. We don’t expect to do that,
but if we can save enough to start us in a cosy little business in
England, that’s good enough for us. Tom says if you could send us a
drop of good Horsham water ’twould be a good present or call on
Jack Young at Michell’s Brewery and tell him to send us a cask for
the use of the Baker and Bradford tent. We shall soon be first
class cooks. See me with the fry pan cooking at the back of our
camp. You would all do a quiet laugh if you could see us here. Will
endeavour to get a few photos bye and bye and send home. You will
then see what sort of a palace it is. I hope you have had a
pleasant winter (it’s far from winter weather here) and also that
you had a pleasant time on the ice. I suppose the Gym is doing a
lot of work now that the cold weather is on. Must excuse a pencil
letter, I didn’t have time to write up the office today and I’m
writing this on my knees in the tent. Think I have told you all the
news at present (My Birthday yesterday – the 27th) so with my very
kind regards to yourself, Fred and Nel and my best wishes to you
also and accept exactly the same from Tom, kindly remember me to
Billy, Sam and all other old chums and
Believe me ever
Your Loving Brother
Arthur J Baker
(Copy made 7th March 1896 by WJH)
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